Pre-Install Checklist: Get Your Yard Ready for Fence Day

TL;DR

A smooth fence build isn’t luck—it’s prep, and a thorough fence inspection can help ensure everything is in order . Confirm property lines, mark utilities and irrigation, clear wide access for materials, pre-decide gates, and set up simple drainage at the fence toe. This homeowner checklist turns “construction day” into two calm visits: posts set straight the first time, then panels and gates tuned without rework.

Why this prep matters (and what it prevents)

With Atlas Fence Company guiding the pre-install, you front-load small decisions that prevent schedule slips and change orders. Crews move faster when paths are clear, utilities are marked, gates are pre-decided, and the fence toe is set to dry out—not stay muddy. Good prep prevents five predictable headaches, including addressing small issues before they escalate :

1. Mystery utilities clipped by augers or posts.
2. Blocked access, forcing hand-carrying and lawn damage.
3. Gate re-dos because swing direction or latch height changed mid-build.
4. Wet toes and buried bottom boards set the clock ticking for rot.
5. Neighbor disputes over line placement after demo.

The goal is a tidy two-visit rhythm: to ensure a solid fence is constructed by setting posts dead-plumb on day one. set posts dead-plumb on day one; hang panels, tune gates, and clean up on day two (or three, if staining is scheduled in a later weather window).

7-Day Countdown: your week-of game plan

T-7 to T-5

• Locate survey pins or string lines, and print the HOA approval.
• Request public utility locates if posts will be driven or holes dug near easements.
• Walk the access route from the curb/drive to the work area and remove any obstacles, furniture, toys, and hoses.

T-4 to T-3

• Flag irrigation heads and drip laterals close to the fence path; shut off zones that would spray the work area.
• Choose a flat, shaded staging pad for posts, rails, and panels.
• Prune or tie back shrubs and low limbs that block hole locations.

T-2

• Decide gate locations, swing directions, and latch heights.
• If operators are in the plan, mark power and conduit paths now.

T-1 (the day before)

• Secure pets and set interior containment for overnight gaps.
• Protect pavers or delicate turf with plywood; stage trash/recycle carts out of the work path.
• Confirm the start time, parking arrangements, and any quiet-hour constraints.

T-0 (install day)

• Do a five-minute walkthrough (script below) before the first hole is dug.
• Confirm the base-gap standard and the drainage plan at low spots.

Property lines & approvals: fast, accurate ways to confirm

• Find the pins: Probe at corners and known offsets; a cheap metal detector is handy. If pins are missing, use your recorded survey and measure off fixed features to locate the missing pins.
• String the run: Pull a ground-line string tight and a second string to the finished top height. Strings reveal both slope steps and potential “wavy fence” issues before you start.
• Neighbor notes: For shared lines, agree in writing which side gets face boards, which stain color you’ll use, and how gates will be handled.
• HOA approvals: Keep a PDF or printout ready; if an inspector stops by, fast answers keep the crew building.

Utilities & irrigation: what to mark, cap, or reroute

• Public locates: Order markings for gas, electric, communications, and water if post driving or digging is planned near easements or suspected lines.
• Private lines to flag:
  • Irrigation: heads, drip laterals, and controller wires—often hidden along fence toes.
  • Low-voltage lighting & speakers: shallow, easily damaged cables.
  • Drainage: French drains crossing the fence line; show where the pipe runs so a post hole doesn’t collapse it.
• Cap or redirect irrigation: Sprinklers aimed at fresh collars or new stain will sabotage your timeline.
• Photo the flags: Mowing, wind, and pets move markers—photos preserve the original layout.

New to the locate process? A quick primer is available to help you avoid common pitfalls: Call 811 Before You Build a Fence in Austin.

Access & staging: get materials in and out without damage

• Path width: Clear at least 36 inches from curb/drive to work area; wider for large panels or steel posts.
• Surface protection: Plywood lanes over pavers or soggy turf prevent rutting and wheelbarrow dents.
• Staging order: Keep posts nearest the dig zone, then rails, panels, and finally boxed hardware; this minimizes “back-and-forth” across the yard.
• Delivery timing: Ask for the drop when you (or someone) can sign and point to the staging pad—misplaced bundles cost time.

Pets, kids, and neighbors: containment and communication

• Containment: If your fence will be open overnight, plan interior pet gates or temporary panels.
• Door discipline: Inform the crew which single gate is designated for daily access; keep all others latched during the build.
• Neighbor heads-up: A friendly text with the schedule reduces surprise and parking friction; confirm any shared-line decisions up front.
• Kids’ zones: Mark a “no-go” area for curious helpers; tools and fresh concrete don’t mix with playtime.

Grading & drainage at the fence toe

Water will choose the easiest path. Ensure that the path is not located within your post holes or against your bottom boards.

• Base gap: Maintain a consistent 2–3 inch gap below bottom boards (or rot boards) so splash doesn’t wick into wood.
• Mow strip: A 6–12 inch band of decomposed granite (DG) or pavers along the fence toe keeps it dry and clean, helps with trimming, and deters mud backsplash.
• Swales & downspouts: Cut a shallow swale on the uphill side where sheet flow hits the line, and extend downspouts so discharge lands past the fence toe.
• Low saddles: Where the yard dips under panels, use rock curbs or short skirt mesh to close daylight without damming water.

If you’re still dialing in the layout, fold these choices into your fence installation plan so that footing details and drainage support each other from day one.

Plants, trees, and hardscape protection

• Transplant early: Move delicate perennials out of the fence path a week in advance so their roots can re-set.
• Prune & tie back: Give augers a clear shot where posts belong; label any specimen shrubs to save.
• Tree roots: When roots are a priority, offset the post location and connect with short custom infills rather than over-digging.
• Mark “no-stage” zones: Blue tape or chalk indicates where pallets and wheelbarrows should not be placed; clarity beats last-minute debates.

Gate locations, swings, and operators

Decide once, install once. Gates are where the build-downs bog down when decisions drift.

• Location & swing: Mark hinge points and swing arcs on the ground; consider leash and mower paths.
• Frames & hardware: Wide or frequently used leaves benefit from rigid frames and adjustable hinges that can be tuned over time.
• Thresholds: A small broomed-concrete pad that pitches water away from hinges prevents mud drag.
• Operators & Power: If you’re adding an opener or considering a driveway leaf, plan for conduit and power now and align the posts accordingly with professional gate installation.

Materials & finish choices you should finalize pre-build

• Pickets & rails: Confirm profiles, heights, and any top caps before lumber hits the site.
• Fasteners: Exterior-rated coated or hot-dip galvanized; through-bolt where feasible.
• Finish: Select stain color and sheen now so crews can mask and coat during the first favorable weather window; mid-light neutrals hide dust and run cooler in the western sun.
• Hardware finishes: Fine-texture, satin/matte hardware hides fingerprints and reduces glare/”hand-sizzle” in August.

Weather windows and schedule tweaks

• Concrete vs. rain: Fresh collars need dry time; heavy clay turns slick and collapses hole walls.
• Wind vs. panels: Large privacy runs act like sails; hang panels in calmer parts of the day.
• Stain windows: Ideal in fall or mild spring; avoid peak heat and avoid irrigation drift for 48–72 hours post-coat.

Day-before checklist (10 minutes)

• Unlock gates and sheds; clear the access path.
• Move grills, furniture, toys, and hoses out of the way.
• Set interior pet containment.
• Lay plywood on pavers or soft, turf-like ground.
• Stage trash/recycling outside the work zone.
• Snap two quick photos of utility/irrigation flags for reference.

Day-of walkthrough script (5 minutes)

1. Show the access path and staging pad.
2. Confirm property lines and any shared-line agreements.
3. Review gate locations, swing directions, and latch heights.
4. Point out utility/irrigation flags, as well as any French drain routes.
5. Reiterate the base-gap standard, mow the strip, and plan the swale at low spots.
6. Clarify quiet hours or parking notes. Then let the crew roll.

After posts set: what to verify before panels go up

• Plumb & alignment: Sight down the line; posts should read as one plane.
• Crowned collars: Tops should be beveled above grade, never flat “bathtubs.”
• Gravel beds: Where soil pockets exist, confirm a compacted gravel base under the posts to ensure the pockets drain effectively.
• Open drain paths: Spoil piles shouldn’t block swales or downspout runs.

After panels & gates: final checks before sign-off

• Uniform base gap: 2–3 inches along the run; close low daylight with rock curbs where needed.
• Gate swing & clearance: Smooth travel, ~1 inch over firm thresholds, no mud drag.
• Latch & handle comfort: Easy two-finger latch; hardware placed out of the harshest afternoon sun.
• Finish plan: If staining is scheduled separately, schedule it for the next favorable weather window and keep irrigation off the faces while it cures.

Troubleshooting common surprises on install day

• Hit shallow rock: Core-drill and set posts with non-shrink grout rather than shortening holes; you’ll keep long-term plumb.
• Unexpected irrigation line: Cap and reroute; splice with proper fittings and keep joints out of post holes.
• Soggy clay collapsing holes: Pause digging and switch to sections on higher ground first. Return once the area drains, or line the hole temporarily with a form.
• Gate bay racking at the last minute: Check threshold grade; add a small pad pitched away from hinges and re-square hardware.
• Neighbors reconsidering a shared section: Keep your string lines and survey handy; build your side to the recorded lines and document the outcome.

FAQs